5 ways to use shallots

The shallot — cousin to garlic, scallions, ramps, leeks, onions and chives — are often called the Queen of Alliums. They are essential in myriad sauces and are valued for their evocative aromas and concentrated flavor all their own.

The French gray variety, sometimes called lavender, are highly prized in France for their milder flavor. Red sun shallots are the most common ones we see in local markets and farmers markets. Their size can range from that of an elongated marble to a small onion.

To store shallots, put them in a cool, dark and well-ventilated place, but never in the refrigerator. Don't store them, or any allium, with potatoes, as gases released by both hasten spoilage. Shallots typically begin to rot more quickly than storage onions, so buy them in amounts you will use quickly.

Today's recipes are drawn from France, Asia and my own style of enjoying them, as I hope you will do, too.

Makes 4 servings

Beurre blanc and its colorful twin, beurre rouge, are 2 of the classic mother sauces of French cuisine. Both rely on the suave subtle flavor of shallots — do not substitute onions — for their flavor.

1 large or 2 small shallots, minced

¾ cup best-quality red wine vinegar

16 (about 1¼ pounds) sea scallops

Kosher salt

White pepper in a mill

¾ cup medium-bodied red wine

5 small sprigs of French tarragon

½ teaspoon whole peppercorns, preferably white

½ cup (4 ounces, 1 stick) butter, cut into 6 slices, plus 1 teaspoon for frying

Place the shallots in a small saucepan, add the vinegar and set aside.

Cut the scallops in half crosswise, set them in a single layer on a piece of wax paper or on a large platter and season all over with salt and pepper. Cover and set aside.

Add the wine, 1 sprig of the tarragon and the whole peppercorns to the vinegar and shallots. Set over medium heat and simmer until the mixture is reduced to about 3 tablespoons. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly; reduce the heat to low and return the saucepan to the heat. Begin to add the butter, whisking 1 slice until it is completely incorporated before adding another. Do not let the sauce boil.

When all but 1 slice of butter has been incorporated, set a heavy ridged skillet on a burner set to medium-high. Remove the sauce from the heat and cover it with the pan's lid.

Add the 1 teaspoon of butter to the ridged skillet and use a pastry brush to coat the ridges with it. Add the scallops in a single layer, working in 2 batches if necessary. Sear for 1½ minutes on 1 side, turn and sear 1½ minutes more, until the shallots are just cooked through. Remove from the heat.

Strain the sauce into a clean saucepan and discard the aromatics. Set over very low heat, whisk in the remaining slice of butter, taste and season with salt and pepper.

Working quickly, divide the sauce between individual plates, arrange the scallops on top and drizzle with a little of the remaining sauce.

Garnish with tarragon sprigs and enjoy right away.

Makes about ½ cup

Fried shallots are a traditional garnish in many Asian cuisines. You find them among the toppings for congee, a savory rice porridge often served for breakfast or a late-night snack in Southeast Asia. They top many noodle salads and seafood dishes, too. Fried shallots are excellent on grilled salmon and make a delicious vegetarian substitute for bacon in BLTs.

8-10 medium shallots, trimmed and peeled

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

Kosher salt

1-2 cups peanut oil

Black pepper in a mill

Slice the shallots crosswise into very thin rounds. In a medium bowl, toss them with the flour and a few generous pinches of salt.

Pour the oil into a small saucepan with high sides and set it over medium heat until it reaches about 360 degrees. Add a small handful of shallots and use a wooden spoon or chopsticks to separate them as they cook. Fry until they are golden brown and crisp, about 7 to 10 minutes. (The shallots need longer cooking than you might think to evaporate their moisture.) Transfer to absorbent paper to drain.

Season lightly with salt and several turns of pepper. Use right away, or store in an airtight container until ready to use. To reheat, spread the shallots on a baking sheet and place in a 350-degree oven for 10 to 12 minutes.

Makes about ¾ cup

This vinaigrette is excellent on any green salad, of course. It is also very good on grilled fish fillets, on salads of sliced tomatoes and cucumbers and spooned over hard-boiled eggs.

2 medium shallots, minced

3 tablespoons best-quality vinegar, such as Vinaigre de Banyuls, or sherry vinegar

Kosher salt

Black pepper in a mill

1 tablespoon minced fresh Italian parsley or snipped chives

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to taste

Put the shallots in a medium bowl, cover with the vinegar and set aside for 15 or 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, add the parsley or chives and whisk in the olive oil. Taste, correct the seasoning and add a bit more olive oil if the dressing seems to tart. Use immediately.

Makes 1-2 servings

When you are grilling outside, this makes an easy and delicious side dish, which is easily doubled or tripled. These shallots, when sliced, are excellent on sandwiches.

6-8 medium shallots, outer papery skins removed

2 or 3 tablespoons butter

Kosher salt

Black pepper in a mill

Start a fire in an outdoor grill. Set the shallots on a sheet of aluminum foil, season with salt and pepper and top with the butter. Fold the foil so it's completely sealed.

Set the package on the grill, to the side so it gets indirect rather than direct heat. Cook, along with any other foods to be grilled, for about 30 minutes, until the shallots are tender. Serve as a side dish or with bread as an appetizer.

Makes 3-4 servings

Serve roasted shallots as a side dish with poultry or meat, or add them to a platter of other roasted vegetables. They are also delicious served with toast triangles as a simple appetizer.

18 shallots, all roughly the same size, peeled

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons best-quality red wine vinegar or balsamic vinegar

Kosher salt

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon minced fresh Italian parsley

Black pepper in a mill

If the shallots are larger than a quarter, cut them in half lengthwise. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Put the shallots in a heavy oven-proof pan, drizzle with the olive oil and vinegar and toss gently. Season with salt. Roast, stirring now and then, until they are tender and have a golden brown glaze, about 20 to 30 minutes.

Add the butter and parsley, stir and roast 5 minutes more. Remove from the oven, season with black pepper and enjoy right away.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date, including "The BLT Cookbook." Email her at [email protected].