Fresh ceviche for a crisp Sangiacomo rosé

The first thing you notice about our wine of the week, Sangiacomo, 2022 Vin Gris of Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($36), is its soft blush, like a baby's cheek or a white peach ripening on its branch. Without a paper label, the wine, in its embossed bottle, seems to glow.

Aromas of strawberry, red raspberry and Meyer lemon resolve into bright yet subtle flavors on the palate. As these flavors subside, a plush texture blossoms and then fades into a crisp citrusy finish that lingers until your next sip.

This is a wine that can carry you through summer's harvest, as it will pair beautifully with high-acid tomatoes, mild chiles, green beans and zucchini. It is beautiful with a simple salad of fresh greens, sliced white peaches and lightly toasted walnuts or pistachios.

Avocado toast is an excellent match. An Oregon baby shrimp tostada with radish salsa makes the wine soar.

Ceviche makes a great match, too, provided it is not too hot. The version I share here today is an old favorite I’ve been enjoying for decades. Ceviche is frequently misunderstood. It is not raw fish; rather, the fish is "cooked," i.e., the protein is denatured, by acid, not heat.

Makes 6 servings

1 pound small bay scallops

1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more if needed

½ cup fresh lime juice, from 3-4 limes

½ cup fresh lemon juice, from 3-4 lemons

1 serrano, seeded and minced

3 garlic cloves, minced

¼ teaspoon ground cayenne, plus more to taste

Black pepper in a mill

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons minced red onion

2 tablespoons minced fresh Italian parsley

1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro

Zest of 1 lemon, grated

Zest of 1 lime, grated

2 cups shredded fresh sorrel or fresh small-leaf arugula

Rinse the scallops in cool water, drain thoroughly, put them in a large bowl and toss with the tablespoon of salt. Set aside 1 tablespoon of lime juice and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, and pour the rest of the juices over the scallops. Toss gently and thoroughly, cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and as long as overnight. Stir the scallops now and then so they cure evenly.

While the scallops cure, make the dressing. Put the reserved lime juice and lemon juice in a small bowl. Add the serrano, garlic, cayenne, 2 or 3 generous pinches of salt and several turns of black pepper. Stir to dissolve the salt and mix in the olive oil. Taste and correct for salt, pepper and acid.

To serve, put the scallops into a strainer and shake off as much liquid as possible. Put in a clean bowl and toss with the red onion and the dressing. Add the parsley, cilantro, lemon zest and lime zest and toss again.

Put the sorrel or arugula on a serving plate, spoon the scallops on top and enjoy right away.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date, including "San Francisco Seafood." Email her at [email protected].